The natural hair movement really has a lot of moving to do at this point.
When the movement first revived itself around 2009, it was a way for women of color and especially black women to feel liberated from European beauty standards imposed on our hair. Having ”good hair” and weave was no longer the only universally accepted style. We started rocking TWAs and afro puffs and all kinds of braids and twists became the trend. Shortly after came the texturism.
Texturism is a form of colorism, favoring looser curl patterns over kinkier ones, because of the assumption that looser textures are less black (which isn’t even true). Even though we are supposed to be all rocking our own personal hair, everybody flocked to products that promoted a loose texture or wavy hair pattern. Products advertising “curl definition” and “moisture” really just turn 4C kinks to 3C coils. Men didn’t help, saying they wanted women all natural with no weave but don’t be checking for the nappy heads (which worked my nerve because men too are nappy-headed, and no one seems to care as much).
Nowadays it’s all about edge control if you do want to rock your afro puff. Rarely do we see natural edges around these streets. Everybody wants to create (yes, create) baby hairs. When I cut my locs off, everyone kept giving me the tidbit of advice: “The cut is cute, just swoop the baby hairs!”.
What is wrong with my hairline as it is? Nothing. Even before cutting my locs, people kept on asking why I didn't line up the edges or use edge control. I thought the point of getting locs was to embrace my REAL natural hair and not jump into a cycle of how neat I can make them.
First of all, fuck them baby hairs. The natural hair movement should be about each of us embracing our hair as it grows out of our head.
Second of all, if you can’t wear a ponytail without laid edges, I don’t think you’re fully embracing your natural state. Some people argue that it’s about “grooming” and again, that is rooted in racism. White women aren't forced to gel down the front of their head. Women with type 1 through type 3 are allowed to wear a messy bun, but type 4 hair is called ugly when we do that. White supremacy. Internalized anti-blackness. Clean, combed, and brushed hair does not automatically come with laid edges. Tell the truth; shame the devil.
I’m not saying there is something wrong with getting your hair styled. Black women are inventive and we are creative; our hair is another extension of the magic, manifested outwardly by how we care for and choose to wear our hair. But please stop hijacking the natural hair movement with this texturism and stop telling me to swoop my baby hair. Fuck them baby hairs and fuck white supremacy. My hair is beautiful in it’s healthy, natural and nappy state. Including my edges.
And that’s on lift every voice and sing.